What makes jigging with worms so much fun is that you can catch any species with the method. There isn’t a freshwater fish in the world that doesn’t love to eat worms. On one of my most memorable days, I managed to catch seven species in one session.

ROD & REEL

The gear is really simple and an 8ft 5-25gram spinning road.  I use a £35.00 8′ 5-25g OKUMA Wave Power.  They are great value for money and don’t break the bank.  They are so versatile you can dropshot, jig and lure fish with them. The rod is coupled with a Dawia Ninja 2000A reel loaded with 15lb braid and 10 feet of 12lb fluorocarbon leader.

JIGHEADS

There are a million jig heads on the market and can be a minefield for the beginner. After a lot of trial and error I have found the Savage Gear Micro Dart jig heads are perfect for jigging worms, either reds and dendrobaena. 

They are made with a small blob on the hook shank which helps secure the worms and lures. They come in three sizes; 0.8g, 1.2g and 2.0g. For Lobworms I up the hook size and weight to a FOX Rage Micro BULLET Jig Head. They come in a good selection of sizes from 2g to 6g.

BAIT

If you are targeting bigger fish then I would take about 50 Lobworms for a 8 hour session. If you trying to catch anything that swims then I usually take half a kilo of Dedrobaenas. If you need to step the gear down then take redworms and use the small jig heads. You’ll still get the big fish. I’ve had Pike up to 8lb on a size 8 hook with a redworm.

You will find that the worm tail that dangles off the shank gets smash up quite often thus the reason for all the bait.  The good thing about worm is that you can take them home and keep them for your next trip.

To hook the worms simply thread the first part of the worm round the bend of the hook until you can’t get any more on.  The the combination of the jig head and real worm gives is second to none.  Try it in the edge and see for your self. It will give you a good idea what is happening when you are retrieving. 

FINDING THE FISH

As with all lure fishing or jigging worms you will want to methodically cast around your swim.  Look for far bank features, culverts, boats and deeper holes. Quite often you will cast over the far side of the canal and the fish will chase it all the way across before hitting it.

The method will chuck up a whole array of species from tiny Pike, Tench, Chub and Gudgeon. 

If you enjoy fishing with worms the check out this article Catch lots of Perch for under £4

To have worms delivered to your home you can try Willy Worms

The post Jigging Worms appeared first on Fishing Maverick.

Maximum 2.5lb test curve carp rods or Barbel rods if you have some. 4000 to 5000 size reels loaded with 30 to 50lb braid, with 15 feet of 15lb Fluorocarbon as a leader. 

RIGS

When it comes to Zander fishing on the River Ouse, I would usually scale my tackle down; as a result, I achieve better outcomes. Zander do not have that huge mouth that Pike have.  The Zander on the River Ouse tend to be on the smaller side, from a pound to 5lb so scale your bait and tackle accordingly.

20 inches of 20lb trace wire and a couple of size 8 semi barbed trebles with the hooks positioned around two inches apart will let you present a 4 to 5 inch deadbait perfectly.

For the rig, you will need Fox Rage Predator Ledger Stems, a 6mm black bead, swivel, and a 2oz flat lead (no smaller).

The rig is basically a running ledger but coupled with a ledger stem. The stem eliminates the hassle of fishing over weed and allows the rigs to run with minimal resistance.

BITE INDICATION

When it comes to bite indication I would recommend using something like a Fox Rage Predator Drop Arm Indicator or a similar brand. It is engineered so the ball clip releases the mainline with minimal resistance which is critical when predator fishing. I use mine in conjunction with a bite alarm. There’s a great video that shows you how to set up your drop off indicator at the bottom of the page.

BAIT

I took a couple of different baits on the day, four to five inch Roach and Sprats. After arriving at my swim I noticed a lots of small fish topping which were certainly Roach. This is when I made my decision to “match the hatch” and use Roach. Before I hook my bait I like to take a pair of small rig scissors and snip through the gills and stab a few holes in the belly. This helps release a trail of scent which is very important on a flowing river. I purchased my bait through an online frozen bait company.  It allows me to buy a good selection all at once for the season. Once the bait arrives I split the bait up into smaller bags so I can take as much or as little as I want without much wastage.

WHERE TO FISH

During the autumn and winter, the boat traffic slows down. This helps when choosing the right location to set your bait. During the summer there’s so much boat traffic it’s impossible to fish anywhere but close in the edge. But when the weather turns, the boat traffic slows down, so we can start fishing over to features on the far bank. Predatory fish like to ambush prey, so features such as boats, culverts, and vegetation should not be overlooked.

On this occasion I fished one rod close in down the shelf in around eight feet of water to my left. I cast the other rod off the end of a vacant narrow boat where the water shallowed up to four feet. The only issue I had with the long cast is that I had to reel in a few times as boats passed. It was worth the aggravation as I had two fish on the far line.

TOP TIP

Once you have cast out, keep your rod pointing directly towards your bait.

I make sure there is the least amount of resistance as possible.  If you have your bait at 90 degrees to your rod tip the fish will feel too much resistance. This will result in a lot of abandoned runs as predatory fish like a natural bait.

You will know when you get a run because your indicator arm will drop down and the alarm will sound.  You will not get a drop back as you are using a tight running ledger.

As soon as you get the run then pick the rod up and concentrate on the line.  You will be looking for the line to gently peel away. I prefer to strike early to avoid deep hooked fish, so leave it no more than 5 seconds. As you are fishing with small baits you need to set the hooks quick as they can quickly inhale the bait down their gut.  A deep hooked fish is an awful situation to be in, so strike early! This image shows a perfectly hooked fish.  Nice and easy to unhook.

If you are like me and need a new challenge then I would recommend a trip out to River Ouse to catch some Zander. Follow this guide and I am sure you will catch one or two.

Here are a couple of links that may help make your day more successful.

How to set up your drop off pike indicator Click Here

For advice on making pike traces at home, see my guide: “How to Make Dead Bait Pike Fishing Traces.”

Get the most out of your bait with my How To Store Deadbaits article

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Rig Uses

The name “flapper” originates from the way the rig moves in the water, imitating the movement of swimming fish. This setup is particularly effective for catching bottom-feeding fish like cod, plaice, or flatfish. The rig’s design allows for the presentation of multiple baits simultaneously, increasing the likelihood of attracting fish in the vicinity. It is a popular choice among shore and boat anglers due to its versatility and efficiency.

Components

Making a flapper rig body is quite simple and only requires six components to construct one. 50lb monofilament for the rig body, beads, size 2 swivels, and crimps to make the flapper anchors, a size 1/0 swivel as your connection point to your shock leader and a quick link to attach your weight.

instructions

I am going to talk through the construction of a flapper rig for fishing from the shore or the pier. Firstly cut yourself a approximately 1.5m of 50lb monofilament. I use a variety of lines but prefer Penn Tuff Stuff or Drennan’s Greased Weasel. To be honest any 50lb line will do.

Step 1

Tie on your quick change link with a blood knot.  I trim the excess back to around three millimetres and carefully melt the tag end until a small blob if formed.  The blob is there as a back up should for some strange reason the knot wasn’t quite tied tightly.

Step 2

Next slide a crimp followed by a bead then a swivel, another bead an a crimp and slide them until they touch the know of the quick change clip. Then crimp your swivel and beads in place as shown below.

Step 3

Then repeat the same procedure to add the second flapper point approximately 30 – 40cm down the line.  To make a three hook flapper add one more connector point the same distance again.

step 4

Measure approximately 16 inches from you last flapper connector and tie your size 1 swivel using a blood knot.  Once again I would recommend to melt the tag end into a blob for safety.

Hook traces

The final step is to attach your hook traces. I trust a half or full blood knot to attach my traces.  In 40 years of fishing I have never had a hook part with the line with this knot.

If it dabs then adjust your traces to smaller hooks and a lighter 15lb trace line.  If its whiting, dogfish and codling then a larger size 20lb line and a 1/0 or 2/0 may fit the bill. The world is your oyster when it comes to deciding how you want to fish your rig.

Happy fishing and tight lines!

The post Making a Flapper Rig appeared first on Fishing Maverick.

Crimpers

Crimpers are indispensable pike & predator fishing tools, allowing anglers to create, modify, and maintain secure connections between their wire traces. These connections are crucial for preventing bite-offs, ensuring angler safety, and promoting the treatment of the fish. 

What crimpers do:

Side or hook Cutters

An essential tool, especially when trebles are being used, side cutters can help hugely with awkwardly hooked predators or if accidental self-hooking occurs.

There will be situations when rather than using unnecessary force on hooks that are well embedded it’s quicker, and safer  to the fish if you simply turn the hooks through and cut the points and barbs off the treble. This can be quicker and ensures that the fish risks minimal stress and discomfort.

Forceps

In pike fishing, forceps serve as invaluable tools for several important purposes.

Hook Removal: The primary function of forceps is to safely remove hooks from a pike’s mouth. Pike have razor-sharp teeth and powerful jaws, making hook removal by hand risky. Forceps allow anglers to grasp the hook firmly and extract it without harming the fish or the angler.

Quick and Precise Work: Designed for precision work in hospitals they allow anglers to access hooks deep within a pike’s mouth. This precision is crucial for both catch-and-release fishing and minimizing harm to the fish.

Minimizing Injury: Forceps help minimize injury to both the angler and the fish. Pike have formidable teeth, and accidental bites can lead to painful wounds and infection. Forceps keep the angler’s hands at a safe distance from the pike’s mouth.

When using forceps in pike fishing, it’s important to choose a sturdy pair with a long reach.  Twelve-inch forceps are ideal to ensure you can access hooks effectively and maintain a safe distance from the pike’s mouth.

Scissors

Probably the most versatile cutting tool in the world. Used for a wide range of tasks including fishing line, braided line, and more. Scissors are designed to provide precise, clean cuts and are essential for tasks requiring accuracy and neatness.

A good pair of scissors in pike and predator fishing serves various practical purposes:

1. Line Cutting: We use them to cut fishing lines, whether it’s to trim excess line, change rigs, or replace damaged sections. They provide a clean, precise cut, ensuring the integrity of your setup.
2. Bait Preparation: They are handy for cutting or trimming bait. They are also handy for adjusting the size and shape of artificial lures.
3. Knot Trimming: After tying knots, scissors are useful for trimming excess tag ends to create neater, streamlined connections, which can reduce the chance of tangles or snags.

Bent nosed Pliers

This little tool is the safest and best way to unhook lip-hooked predators. Simply grab the shank of your hook with the pliers and twist just like an extended set of fingers.

This design allows you to reach into tight or hard-to-reach spaces and provides better access for tasks such as gripping, bending, and manipulating.

Unhooking Gloves

Unhooking gloves ensure a completely secure grip, enabling you to hold the fish at your discretion. They are highly effective for safely landing pike and zander with a firm hold behind the gill cover.

Fish gill rakers are bony, comb-like structures located within the gill arches that function to filter food particles from the water as it passes through the gills. While these structures are crucial for a fish’s feeding process, they can potentially pose a danger to humans if not handled properly.

The sharp edges of gill rakers can cause injury when a fish thrashes or when it is handled carelessly, leading to cuts, punctures, or abrasions

If you have this array of tools in your bag you should cover most eventualities. There are a whole host of brands out there and a range of prices to suit everyone’s budget.

Until next time, may your hooks stay sharp and your catches plentiful,.

https://www.foxrage.com/home/product/fox-rage-side-cutters

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Cod populations in the North Atlantic drive a natural phenomenon of cod emigration between Scandinavia and the UK. Cod are highly migratory fish, and undertake these movements due to a combination of environmental factors, including water temperature, food availability, and reproductive patterns.

Migration

During the warmer months, cod will move northward to colder waters, including areas around Scandinavia. Driven by the need to find cooler temperatures, cod migrate to feed and spawn in these areas. 

Feeding

Cod are found in areas with abundant prey, and are opportunistic feeders and feed on smaller fish and crustaceans. In the spring and summer, when waters in the North Atlantic are relatively warmer, they move to these feeding grounds.

Spawning

Cod also migrate to specific spawning grounds during the reproductive season, which usually occurs in late winter and early spring. These spawning grounds often exist in shallower waters near the coast. Some important spawning areas are located off Scandinavia and the UK coast.

Winter Migration

As winter approaches and waters in the northern regions become colder, cod often migrate southward. They move to deeper and warmer waters to avoid extremely cold temperatures, where they can conserve their energy during the colder months. Some of these areas include waters around my local coastline in Essex.

Cod populations have faced huge challenges over the years due to overfishing, which has impacted their numbers and distribution. Management measures and regulations in both Scandinavia and the UK have successfully protected cod populations and ensured sustainable fishing practices.

Cod can grow enormous with the current world record standing at 103lb 10oz caught of the coast of Norway. The biggest ever shore-caught cod that weighed in at 66lb 8oz also came from Saltstraumen in Norway. The current British Boat caught record is 58lb 6oz 0dr and 44lb 8oz from the shore.

A recent cod trip

From Late October to late March, codling can be caught in most areas of the UK, both from the shore and boats. Living in Essex we have had some fantastic cod fishing over the years but nowadays the fishing is patchy. This is where local knowledge and a good skipper are worth their weight in gold.

One February cod fishing trip saw me and five friends board Mark Peters, Dawn Tide 2 out of Essex Marina.  Cod had been showing in numbers about an hour’s trip north towards Clacton on Sea. The forecast was light winds, a decent tide, and temperatures reaching a dizzy 12 degrees. The trip out started at 7 am and when we got out of the estuary and put the throttle down the wind chill must have been -4 degrees. I struggled to tie my hooks as my fingertips went numb.  We anchored up about a mile off the end of Clacton Pier in approximately 20 feet of water at high tide.

SETUP

The codling we were going to catch were only small and up to around 8lb so we did not need heavy gear like you would need in Norway or fishing over wrecks with big perks.

A 25lb class 9ft rod with a small multiplier loaded with 60lb braid was perfect.  It was well balanced and had the strength behind it if we did hit a larger fish.  I am a huge fan of braided fishing line. Compared to monofilament lines of similar strength, braided lines have a much thinner diameter. This thinness allows for increased line capacity on my reels and reduced water resistance which is crucial with fast running tides. Braid also has low stretch properties, which means that they are highly sensitive. You can easily detect even the subtlest of bites or movements.

RIG

The business end was a simple sliding rig with a zip slider and a 2/0 barrel swivel.  Hook trace was 7ft of 30lb Amnesia memory free line and a 4/0 and 2/0 pennel rig. Even a small codling can take a huge bait so you can get away with a decent size hook.

Bait

You need to stay away from using small baits or whiting and other small fish will drive you mad.  Ask any cod angler what bait to use and most will say lugworm and squid cocktail. Other favourites are squid/mussels and peeler crab/mussels.  As with all sea fishing,  you want to be changing your bait regularly to keep a good scent trail in the water.

My bait preference for the day was two large lugworms threaded on the hook tipped with a big slither of squid.  A tip worth trying is to use the head of the squid to tip off you worm baits. I did try whole squid on a pennel but felt the codling were a bit small so I stuck with the cocktail.

Casting around 30 yards up-tide of the boat it wasn’t long before we were getting some nice whiting around the pound mark.  After an hour the tide started to flood and it was as if someone turned a “bite” switch on.  My rod bounced down and went slack and I was reeling in the first codling of the day.  A lovely four pounder which I kept for dinner.

Everyone was steadily catching on either worm and squid cocktail or small whole squid. Of the six of us on the boat that day we managed 20 or so codling and a dozen good whiting. All in all a pretty good day out and we were all going to eat well.  We have had days where we have landed over one hundred 5-8lb codling but those red letter days are few and far between.

If its big cod you’re looking for then I would suggest going fishing over wrecks. It’s a completely different set up and usually a much longer journey to the fishing grounds. It is where the bigger fish lie and can be a hard day on the body hauling fish and jigging pirks from 45 – 70 meters of water.

If you fancy a bucket list trip then take a look at some of the amazing trips they have to Norway.

cod off the beach

Cod fishing off the beach is a totally different ball game with rods, reels, rigs and baits and will be going more in-depth in another article dedicated to that subject.

So if you fancy a cod trip this year, do some research into good cod charter boats around you and give it a go yourself.

Until next time, happy fishing!

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Proper bait storage can make a significant difference in your fishing success, and we’re here to help you master this crucial aspect of predator fishing. Read on to discover the secrets of maintaining your deadbaits in top-notch form and save money by not wasting bait.

Blast Frozen Bait

If you’re an avid predator angler who loves pursuing Pike, Zander (Walleye), or Muskie you know how important it is to have your deadbaits in prime condition.  That is the reason I like to buy blast frozen deadbaits online for my fishing. Blast freezing rapidly lowers the temperature of food or other products to freezing levels. This extremely quick cooling method helps preserve the items’ quality and freshness by minimizing the formation of large ice crystals, which can damage cell structures.  Slow-frozen baits often end up soft and can come off the hook easier when casting.

When the baits get delivered, this is the ideal time to manage your bait. I know so many anglers who buy a pack of ten roach or sardines and will take them all with them.  They only end up using three or four of them and either chuck the rest in or refreeze them. The refrozen ones end up deteriorating and I would only use them if I was desperate.

On receiving my bait I always take the time to separate the frozen fish into sizes. Even though the fish are all frozen they can be prized apart with little damage. You can leave them out for five minutes they will be able to be separated. I categorize the sizes of baits into; four to five-inch and six to eight-inch fish.  I have found these are the best sizes for general predator fishing at the venues I fish. If you fish big waters and use bigger baits such as whole trout or mackerel just get a wider tube. The wider tube can store the small fish as well. You can also pair up baits if you wish or just seal single ones.

Storing deadbaits

I bought a reel of three-inch polythene plastic lay flat tubing from eBay to individually wrap each fish. Individual wrapping allows you to keep your baits organized and easily accessible. You can quickly grab the bait you need without rummaging through a jumble of loose baits. Extended Shelf Life: Properly wrapped and stored deadbaits can last longer, reducing waste and saving you money in the long run.

Heat sealer

I am lucky to have a small heat sealer from when I had my tackle company “Future Image”. We used this in the warehouse to package all types of products and is ideal for sealing up bait.  You can buy a new one off eBay for around £25 and is a worthwhile investment. They are very simple to use.  All you do is lay the tube on the sealer and press down for a second.

Take the tubing and cut it into lengths that are four inches longer than your bait.  Then seal one end of the tubing. I have a good habit of double-sealing my bags to prevent any chance of defrosted baits leaking into my cooler bag. Just make your first seal, then move the tubing a couple of millimetres and make a second seal.

Preparing your baits

Alaways try squeeze out any excess air that may be trapped in the bag and seal it twice. Taking the excess air out just allows for more room in my freezer and is not critical.

Result

You can see from the image below how your baits should look ready for the freezer. You can label or mark the wrappers with bait type, size, and date of preparation, making it easy to choose the right bait for the specific fishing conditions.  I do this because I also have sea baits stored in the same freezer.

Storing deadbaits properly will make your life easier and get you better results.  As with most fishing, bait is a key ingredient to success and fresh bait usually gives you the edge.

Check out how to make deadbait traces HERE

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These bottom-dwelling cousins of sharks can reach quite a size.  The current UK boat caught record is a monster 31lb 7oz and 22lb 11oz 8dr from the shore. Most boat-caught rays caught off the south coast are around the 5-7lb mark. If you want to keep one to cook, then the minimum size is 41cm across the wings.

Deeper water and larger tides call for a strong setup for the boat angler. Even though the fish on the end of your line may be 6lb, a fast tide will feel like you are pulling in a wet blanket. That is the one setback with catching rays of most types; the fight is unfortunately abysmal.

Let’s talk tackle.

boat Fishing Rod and reel setup

25lb Class boat rod is ideal, but if you only have one that is bigger or a little smaller it will work. The reel choice is either a size 6000 fixed spool or a small boat multiplier, but once again if you have anything around these sizes that should be fine.

I like to use braided fishing line as it offers several advantages, such as exceptional strength-to-diameter ratio, minimal stretch, and increased sensitivity. If you only have mono line that will do just fine just make sure you have around 25-30lb breaking strain. 60lb braided mainline with a 50lb fluorocarbon leader never lets me down when fishing for skate. The leader is there for the zip slider to run up and down and protect your braid from the abrasive skin and thrones of the rays.

RIG

When fishing for thornback rays on a boat, a simple running rig with a Zip Slider does the trick just fine. Slide your Zip Slider on the line followed by a 6mm bead and attach it to a size 2/0 barrel swivel.

Hooklink

I always use a memory-free monofilament line called AMNESIA by a company called Sunset from the USA for all my sea fishing hook traces. When working with my braid mainline, I can see every indication of a bite.  There are some great memory-free fluorocarbon lines out there but choose something that you are confident with.

For baits like sandeels, worm baits, and pieces of fish, I use between 5 and 7ft of Amnesia leader with a 3/0 Aberdeen hook and a quick link. It’s a simple but very effective setup for rays. If you are going to use whole squid then add a size 1/0 Aberdeen to make a pennel rig. This will give you a better bait presentation.

My choice of hooks are Aberdeen’s as I believe they optimize the presentation of your bait, especially squid and sandeels. The hook that complements your bait choice can result in a more natural presentation, which will attract more fish. The long shank also makes it easier to remove the hook from a fish’s mouth without causing injury.

Make sure you are using two hook links.  One is fishing in the water and the other is baited up ready to quickly attach via a rig clip.  The rig clip (below) can be removed from the swivel in seconds.

This method could add an extra two hours to your fishing time a day by getting a bait straight back in the water.  You don’t want to be fiddling around for three minutes every cast baiting up. After all 3 minutes x 6 casts an hour x 7 hours fishing = 2 hours you’re not fishing a day.  I know, it’s shocking when you do the math so make sure you use two hook links.

BAIT

When it comes to bait you have quite a choice. Like most rays, they predominantly feed on crustaceans, sandeels, and small fish. For our excursions off the Essex coast we usually catch well on a cross-section of Herring just hooked through the backbone. Whole squid on a pennel rig or a sandeel threaded onto the hook are also reliable baits and well worth a try. 

FISHING

Fishing is pretty straightforward and not complicated.  If you can cast up tide as far as is comfortable and wait for the bites to develop. Make sure you change your bait every ten minutes or so.  This will give you plenty of attraction and will definitely result in more bites. 

BITES

Thornback bites are usually the daintiest bites you will get.  Representing a small fish nibbling at your bait can be the best way to explain it. The rod tip will do a little dance on and off as the skate lays on top of the bait enveloping its prey. From here it engulfs the bait and sits there munching away.  Once it moves off, that’s when you get a better bite. There’s no need to go striking like a madman. Just firmly lift the rod while winding down on the fish.

how to hold a skate

When fishing for thornback rays be careful when you catch one. Thornback rays have skin and tails that represents a weapon from Lord of the Rings. Not only is the tail full of hundreds of thorns but both the upper and underside of the fish possess large single thorns on its wings.

The primary purpose of the thorns is defence. The safest way to hold them is by using your thumb index and middle fingers to lightly hold them as you can see in the photo. Your fingers naturally find their way into a hollow between the head and wing. Keep it away from your body and watch out for the whipping of its tail.

Tasty skate

Skate wings are one of my favourite fish to eat and are so versatile to cook with.  You can deep fry in batter, steam, pan fry, or even cook them on a cedar plank. Whatever way you choose you’ll get plenty of meat with no annoying little pin bones. A wing of a smaller 3-4lb fish is what you’ll get in the chip shop.  But if you are lucky to have an 8lb fish, the wings can be divided in two or even three pieces. I tend to send the kids down to the fish shop for the chips while I pan fry a few fresh wings.

So there you have it, a basic guide to fishing for Thornback Rays.  I hope you’ve learned something and it helps you on your next fishing trip. 

If you found this article useful then why not take a look at my article on Smoothound Fishing 

For more about minimum sizes of UK fish check out Angling Trust where you will find  all the fish size limits for the UK

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These native members of the shark family reach more than 28lb and are a bundle of fun to catch on sporting tackle. These hard-fighting fish are common around the south and west of England, but their range seems to be increasing.  They’re a shallow water shark species, and favour sandy, shingle, and light broken ground. They spend their day eating crabs other crustaceans and shellfish. They don’t possess the trademark mouth full of razor-sharp teeth like most of its family members so fish are not a large part of its diet.

WHERE TO GO

My “go-to” fishing charter boat for a Smoothound trip is without question Mark Peter’s Dawn Tide II which operates out of Essex Marina on the River Crouch. A fast, spacious catamaran that gets you out to the grounds in under an hour. Mark never fails to put us on the fish and has the most up-to-date knowledge of the area.

We go around 45 minutes to an hour out to the sandy marks around Foulness Point.  Foulness is a military testing ground for bombs and artillery shells. Its military links means there are very strict rules in place on when and where you can visit, and indeed which bits of the island you are even allowed go to. On most days you will see the explosions then ten seconds later heard the bang.  It’s quite frightening but well away from the fishing grounds.

So what gear will I need?

Before we start, if you haven’t got any gear Mark has everything you need for a day’s hound fishing, including rods, reels, tackle, and bait. 

Rods & ReelS

For smoothound fishing, I like a 15 or 25-lb class Dawia Seahunter 8015 or 8025 up-tide rod with a size 5-6000 reel loaded with 60 – 80lb braid and a 20 ft 50lb mono leader. I’ve got some friends that use big “Pit” carp reels and they operate just fine. If it is a big tide I would tend to lean towards the bigger rod.

Rig

For boat fishing, my “Go To Rig” is a simple sliding rig with a pennel hook set up.  As the bait we are using is quite big, the upper pennel hook helps present the bait better and more naturally. 

Sliding setup

To make the rig you’ll need the following: 1 x Zip Slider, 1 large bead, and a size 2/0 swivel. Simply slide on your slider boom, then the bead and tie a tucked half blood knot to attach the swivel.  The hook link can then be attached and detached to the swivel very quickly.

MAKING A Pennel Hook Link

What you will need

• 5-7ft of 30lb (13.6kg) Amnesia Memory Free Mono line
• 1 x 4/0 Aberdeen hook and 1 x 6/0 Aberdeen hook
• 1 x Quick link

If you want a bit of added attraction you can add some beads. 

• 1 x Large rubber stops
• Beads of your choice

How to make your hook link

Cut 5-7ft of 30lb Amnesia or standard mono. Tied on the 6/0 hook then thread on the 4/0 hook.  If you like some attraction around your bait then add some beads or sequins and thread on a rubber stop.  Tie your quick link to the other end and you’re ready to go.

BIG TIP

One piece of advice I can’t stress enough is to have two hook links set up.  One in the water baited up and fishing.  The other baited up next to you and ready to go. Once you have wound in simply remove the hook link via the quick link put the freshly baited hook link on and cast it out. You will be surprised how much time is wasted baiting up just one hook link at a time.

For example: if you spend three minutes messing around clearing weed and the old bait off your hook, then baiting up again and you have six casts every hour, then on a six-hour trip you have wasted 106 minutes of fishing time.  That’s the best part of an hour and a half you haven’t had a bait in the water.  Even when I get a fish I unclip it place it in a bucket of water cast it out again and deal with the unhooking after I have cast out fresh bait.  Your catch rate can only improve and it’s simple to do.

Bait SELECTION

A Smoothounds diet is made up primarily of crustaceans, shellfish, and molluscs. Smooth hound sharks exhibit a distinct preference for crabs and hermit crabs as a primary food source due to a combination of their dietary needs and hunting strategy. The specialised dentition of smoothhounds, characterised by flattened teeth designed for crushing rather than tearing, makes them well-suited for consuming hard-shelled prey like crabs. Their hunting behaviour complements their preference for crabs, as they are bottom-dwellers that rely on stealth and ambush tactics to catch their prey.

This is why crabs and hermit crabs are always part of my day out. Mark regularly catches his crabs in pots so the bait is as fresh as you can get. Peeler crabs are fantastic but hardbacked shore crabs will be just as effective.  As you can see above, hermit crabs make an irresistible snack for any hound that’s around.

smoothound fishing TIP

Change your bait regularly so you have as much attraction and scent releasing from the bait as possible. Remember some of the best Smoothound fishing venues have limited visibility so the only way they can find your bait is by smell.

FISHING

My preferred casting technique is up-tiding but have seen lots of fish caught just by throwing it over the side of the boat.  I like to have my bait presented away from the boat as I believe I create my own scent trail that leads up to my bait. As with all up-tide fishing, it is a self-hooking trap so can avoid any deep-hooked fish.

There’s not much to it other than regularly changing your bait.  You’ll know when you have one on the hook.  They are all muscle and even when they are in the boat beware.  The safest way for you and the fish it to hold them by the tail.  The best way to unhook them is by a T-Bar or strong pair of piers.

Lots of anglers will have their own methods and preferences on how to catch smoothound but I hope this article gives you a good base to start from. If you follow the advice above and get out on a good boat I’m certain you’ll have a great day. Let me know how you get on via my Instagram or Facebook pages.

If you fancy giving it a go then contact Mark on the Dawn Tide II at one of the links below. https://www.dawntidecharterfishing.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/dawntidecharters

If you enjoyed this blog, why not check this one out on How to add attraction to your sea fishing hooks? https://www.fishingmaverick.com/pimp-up-your-sea-hook

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You will need a rod of around 2 3/4lb test curve with a carp size reel with either 18lb Monofilament or 40lb braid. If you use a braid, you need to tie around twenty feet of 20lb line, preferably fluorocarbon.  I use a surgeon’s knot to tie the two together and have never had an issue. There are several knots you can use so it could be worth experimenting.   

For the rig you will need the following tackle:

In-line pike float

There are many floats on the market but I believe the best starting point is a simple inline or sliding pike float.  Several companies make them but I tend to use ones that I have handmade.  They do the job just as well.

Beads & Float Stops

Medium float stops. These are an absolute must if fishing with sliding floats.  They allow you to put a tight small rubber stopper on the line in seconds. Before these were invented we would have tied a special sliding knot using mono or power gum.

beads

4-6mm beads (preferably orange) will stop the float from sliding above the stoppers. 4-6mm rubber beads act as a small shock absorber for the weight when casting.

weights

Bullet and oval weights are ideal and will help you be able to find the correct depth to set your float.  Unlike regular float fishing, the float does not need to sit up low in the water. It should sit at a 45-degree angle or lay on its side and is used to anchor the bait.  Once a fish takes the bait and moves off, the float will completely cock and move away.

There are several good types on the market.  The ones I carry with me are Fox Rage Quick Change and inline olive weights I picked up in the States. I would suggest carrying a few sizes in case the wind picks up and you need a bigger anchor.

Pike Trace

Your choice of pike trace will depend on what size and bait you want to use.  As a guide, I would start off using a twin treble hook snap tackle with size 4 semi-barbless hooks.

Quick change swivel

Most good pike anglers will tie a quick change link swivel to the end of their rig.  Your trace wire is clipped onto the link while fishing. When you get a fish in the net you should aim to safely unclip the trace so you can get your rod entirely out of harm’s way.

Assembling the rig

Step 1

Feed on two rubber float stops onto the line. I use a medium size stop so they do not slip up the line. Then slide the rubber stops a few feet up the line.

Step 2

Feed a bright coloured bead onto the line followed by the pike float.  Once in the water, the float will slide up the line until it hits the stopper.

step 3

Slide the weight onto the line followed by the rubber bead. Tie on your quick link swivel and clip your trace onto the link.  Your finished rig should look like this.

To find the depth of your swim simply keep sliding the top rubber stop up the line until the float cocks. When you reach this point you know that the whole trace is laying on the bottom. Just to reiterate you need to have the float laying at a 45-degree angle or just laying flat.  When you get a run the float will cock and start to move.  Make sure you strike early to avoid deep-hooked fish.  

This is the simplest pike float fishing setup and is ideal for beginners through to seasoned professionals.

How to Make Dead Bait Pike Fishing Traces

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Twin hook snap tackles have been the go to rig for predator anglers. Any angler using dead bait will have a collection of these in their box.

WHAT YOU NEED

Making them is pretty straight forward and doesn’t take long to master the technique. You will need; Treble hooks size 6 or 4’s, 5mm 0.8mm bore crimps, trace wire minimum 20lb, 3or 4mm shrink tube, size 4 swivels, crimping tool and your kettle.

Attaching the point hook.

To start off, cut a length of trace wire to 25inches or 64cm.  The trace will shorten to around 20″ after you have made the trace. Take one of your crimps and thread it on the trace and then thread an treble hook. Tread the wire back through the trace like below.

Then thread the wire back on itself.

Slowly pull the two ends until the top loop has been pulled close to the crimp. The hook end should be pulled so the hook can freely move.

Trim off the excess wire at the end of the hook using the cutters on the crimper tool. Next, place the wire with the crimp into the crimper.

Squeeze the tool hard, squashing the crimp around the wire leaving some obvious markings on the crimp.

Cut a 25mm piece of shrink tube and feed it down the trace and over the hook. Make sure the crimp and hook eye are concealed.

Boil your kettle and carefully hold the tube over the steam from the kettle.  It must be steaming for the tube to shrink.

Once the tube has shrunk it should be nice and neatly concealed like this.

Second treble hook

Next, thread the second treble hook on to the trace and place it approximately 80mm apart or whatever distance you require. Distance between the hooks will depend on the dead bait you will be using.  If you are fishing sprats then 70 to 90mm is fine.  But if your choice of dead bait is a whole trout then you will need to widen the gap to 130mm.  Remember this is just a guide. The beauty about making your own pike fishing traces is that you can tailor each trace to the bait you use.

Holding the hook and trace firmly at the hook shank, make 6 tight turns towards the bend of the hook.  Then make six turns back, overlapping the wire trace.  Feed the wire back through the eye of the hook and tighten.

Thread another length of shrink tube onto the shank of the hook hiding the twisted trace wire and shrink over the kettle as before.

attatching swivels to your traces

To attach you swivel to the end of the trace you must first feed a length of shrink tube on to the wire followed by a crimp. As with the hook, feed the wire back through the crimp and then back through again. Crimp the wire together using your crimping tool.

Place the shrink tube half way up the swivel body making sure the whole crimp is concealed and steam shrink over the kettle.  Make sure you give your trace a frim pull to check its strength.  And there’s how to make own dead bait pike traces.

If you want to learn more about types of pike traces why not have a look at the article “SIMPLE  GUIDE TO PIKE TRACES”

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